Warm Autumn · Makeup

Warm Autumn makeup: rich, golden shades and how to wear them

Warm Autumn makeup - True Autumn, in the older naming - is warmth with depth: terracotta, copper, bronze, olive and brick, every shade with gold running through it. It is the warmest makeup of any season, and a cool base is the only thing it cannot wear. Further down: sixteen complete faces on four depths of skin, each product in the order it goes on, and every shade in one list you can save.

  • Four steps, in order
  • Four complexions
  • Everyday and evening

The order you apply it in

  1. Warm honey caramel foundation matched to a medium Warm Autumn complexion
    Base Medium - honey caramel
  2. Warm grapefruit coral cream blush pressed high on the cheekbone
    Cheeks Grapefruit
  3. Deep terracotta shadow washed across the lid
    Eyes Terracotta lid
  4. Deep brick red lipstick in a satin finish
    Lips Brick red

Start here

You are a Warm Autumn. Here is what to put on.

Everything below follows from one fact: your coloring is warm through and through, and rich rather than bright. Golden, peach or honey skin that tans easily, hair with copper or gold in it, and eyes that are warm brown, hazel, amber or a golden green. There is no blue anywhere in this face, and the contrast in it is medium - made of warm browns, never of black.

So the shades are the palette’s earth and metal worn on the face - terracotta, copper, bronze, ochre, olive, brick - and they can be deep. There is one main way to go wrong: cold. A pink foundation, a silver highlight, a baby pink blush or a blue-red lip turns this skin sallow, and a black line looks darker than anything else on the face.

The whole page in one line

Keep every shade golden, and let the depth come from warm color rather than from black.

Five minutes of Warm Autumn makeup on a medium complexion
Your quietest A golden base where it is needed, a grapefruit cream blush, a terracotta nude balm. Three products, and the face already looks sunlit.
The most Warm Autumn makeup this coloring carries, on a medium complexion
Your boldest A moss green smoke, a chocolate line inside the lashes, a cordovan lip. As deep as this face goes, and not a trace of black.

The same medium-skinned woman at her quietest and at her boldest. Between the two photographs the warm color goes deeper; its temperature never moves. Fair, light and deep follow in the next section.

What is on this page

  1. Sixteen finished looks Sixteen faces from a five-minute one to a wedding, each card listing what went on the lid, cheek and mouth.
  2. Why these shades Four swaps, each shown against the cool version a Warm Autumn usually already owns.
  3. How to build it Base, cheeks, eyes, lips, in the order they go on, and how to keep each one golden.
  4. When you need more Richer, never blacker: day and evening side by side at each depth.
  5. How to buy it Testing a base at the jaw, the label words that give a pink base away, and your square on the foundation grid.
  6. The shade list All 44 shades with their hexes in one block, sized for a screenshot.

Sixteen finished looks

Sixteen faces before any more shade names: four occasions across four complexions, and each card spells out what sits on the lid, the cheek and the mouth. Start from the row closest to your skin and follow it left to right. The right-hand card is the ceiling for this coloring - brick or cordovan on the mouth, and still no black.

If you have fair skin:

Five minutes Warm Autumn makeup on fair skin - golden peach blush and peach nude
Five minutes Running late
  • Base Fair - warm ivory
  • Blush Golden peach blush
  • Lips Peach nude
A little golden base where the skin needs it, a cream blush tapped onto the cheekbone and blended up and back, brows combed upward, a warm tinted balm. The cheek sets the temperature of a Warm Autumn face, so a peach or terracotta flush is the quickest way to look well.
Work Warm Autumn makeup on fair skin - golden peach blush and peach nude
Work Most days
  • Base Fair - warm ivory
  • Blush Golden peach blush
  • Eyes Golden beige lid
  • Liner Chocolate liner
  • Lips Peach nude
One earthy shade across the lid, chocolate liner pushed into the lash roots rather than drawn on top, blush high on the cheekbone, a spiced nude on the lips. Keep the nude warm: a pink-beige is the one daytime shade that turns this skin ashy.
Dinner Warm Autumn makeup on fair skin - apricot blush and pumpkin spice
Dinner Out in the evening
  • Base Fair - warm ivory
  • Blush Apricot blush
  • Eyes Copper shimmer
  • Liner Antique bronze liner
  • Lips Pumpkin spice
A metal or an earth on the lid - copper, bronze, terracotta or moss - swept into the crease and out beyond the corner, a bronze or teal line under the lashes, and a spiced red on the mouth. After dark this coloring gets richer, not blacker.
Wedding Warm Autumn makeup on fair skin - grapefruit and copper red lip
Wedding As far as it goes
  • Base Fair - warm ivory
  • Blush Grapefruit
  • Eyes Bronze lid
  • Liner Forest green liner
  • Lips Copper red lip
A second evening shade on the lid, taken round to the lower lashes, a green or chocolate tightline, and the deepest red in the family - brick or cordovan. It is a smoky eye made of warm color, which gives the depth of the classic version with none of its chill.

If you have light skin:

Five minutes Warm Autumn makeup on light skin - apricot blush and caramel nude
Five minutes Running late
  • Base Light - golden beige
  • Blush Apricot blush
  • Lips Caramel nude
A little golden base where the skin needs it, a cream blush tapped onto the cheekbone and blended up and back, brows combed upward, a warm tinted balm. The cheek sets the temperature of a Warm Autumn face, so a peach or terracotta flush is the quickest way to look well.
Work Warm Autumn makeup on light skin - apricot blush and caramel nude
Work Most days
  • Base Light - golden beige
  • Blush Apricot blush
  • Eyes Apricot lid
  • Liner Chocolate liner
  • Lips Caramel nude
One earthy shade across the lid, chocolate liner pushed into the lash roots rather than drawn on top, blush high on the cheekbone, a spiced nude on the lips. Keep the nude warm: a pink-beige is the one daytime shade that turns this skin ashy.
Dinner Warm Autumn makeup on light skin - grapefruit and copper red lip
Dinner Out in the evening
  • Base Light - golden beige
  • Blush Grapefruit
  • Eyes Bronze lid
  • Liner Teal green liner
  • Lips Copper red lip
A metal or an earth on the lid - copper, bronze, terracotta or moss - swept into the crease and out beyond the corner, a bronze or teal line under the lashes, and a spiced red on the mouth. After dark this coloring gets richer, not blacker.
Wedding Warm Autumn makeup on light skin - terracotta blush and brick red
Wedding As far as it goes
  • Base Light - golden beige
  • Blush Terracotta blush
  • Eyes Terracotta lid
  • Liner Chocolate liner
  • Lips Brick red
A second evening shade on the lid, taken round to the lower lashes, a green or chocolate tightline, and the deepest red in the family - brick or cordovan. It is a smoky eye made of warm color, which gives the depth of the classic version with none of its chill.

If you have medium skin:

Five minutes Warm Autumn makeup on medium skin - grapefruit and terracotta nude
Five minutes Running late
  • Base Medium - honey caramel
  • Blush Grapefruit
  • Lips Terracotta nude
A little golden base where the skin needs it, a cream blush tapped onto the cheekbone and blended up and back, brows combed upward, a warm tinted balm. The cheek sets the temperature of a Warm Autumn face, so a peach or terracotta flush is the quickest way to look well.
Work Warm Autumn makeup on medium skin - grapefruit and terracotta nude
Work Most days
  • Base Medium - honey caramel
  • Blush Grapefruit
  • Eyes Ochre lid
  • Liner Chocolate liner
  • Lips Terracotta nude
One earthy shade across the lid, chocolate liner pushed into the lash roots rather than drawn on top, blush high on the cheekbone, a spiced nude on the lips. Keep the nude warm: a pink-beige is the one daytime shade that turns this skin ashy.
Dinner Warm Autumn makeup on medium skin - terracotta blush and brick red
Dinner Out in the evening
  • Base Medium - honey caramel
  • Blush Terracotta blush
  • Eyes Terracotta lid
  • Liner Teal green liner
  • Lips Brick red
A metal or an earth on the lid - copper, bronze, terracotta or moss - swept into the crease and out beyond the corner, a bronze or teal line under the lashes, and a spiced red on the mouth. After dark this coloring gets richer, not blacker.
Wedding Warm Autumn makeup on medium skin - terracotta blush and cordovan
Wedding As far as it goes
  • Base Medium - honey caramel
  • Blush Terracotta blush
  • Eyes Moss green lid
  • Liner Chocolate liner
  • Lips Cordovan
A second evening shade on the lid, taken round to the lower lashes, a green or chocolate tightline, and the deepest red in the family - brick or cordovan. It is a smoky eye made of warm color, which gives the depth of the classic version with none of its chill.

If you have deep skin:

Five minutes Warm Autumn makeup on deep skin - terracotta blush and honey brown nude
Five minutes Running late
  • Base Deep - warm cocoa
  • Blush Terracotta blush
  • Lips Honey brown nude
A little golden base where the skin needs it, a cream blush tapped onto the cheekbone and blended up and back, brows combed upward, a warm tinted balm. The cheek sets the temperature of a Warm Autumn face, so a peach or terracotta flush is the quickest way to look well.
Work Warm Autumn makeup on deep skin - terracotta blush and honey brown nude
Work Most days
  • Base Deep - warm cocoa
  • Blush Terracotta blush
  • Eyes Khaki olive lid
  • Liner Chocolate liner
  • Lips Honey brown nude
One earthy shade across the lid, chocolate liner pushed into the lash roots rather than drawn on top, blush high on the cheekbone, a spiced nude on the lips. Keep the nude warm: a pink-beige is the one daytime shade that turns this skin ashy.
Dinner Warm Autumn makeup on deep skin - terracotta blush and brick red
Dinner Out in the evening
  • Base Deep - warm cocoa
  • Blush Terracotta blush
  • Eyes Moss green lid
  • Liner Antique bronze liner
  • Lips Brick red
A metal or an earth on the lid - copper, bronze, terracotta or moss - swept into the crease and out beyond the corner, a bronze or teal line under the lashes, and a spiced red on the mouth. After dark this coloring gets richer, not blacker.
Wedding Warm Autumn makeup on deep skin - terracotta blush and cordovan
Wedding As far as it goes
  • Base Deep - warm cocoa
  • Blush Terracotta blush
  • Eyes Copper shimmer
  • Liner Chocolate liner
  • Lips Cordovan
A second evening shade on the lid, taken round to the lower lashes, a green or chocolate tightline, and the deepest red in the family - brick or cordovan. It is a smoky eye made of warm color, which gives the depth of the classic version with none of its chill.

Go down any column and the occasion holds while the shade names change. A golden peach that glows on warm ivory hardly shows on deep bronze skin, so every row down needs a deeper, warmer shade - golden peach, apricot, grapefruit, terracotta - to do the same job. The gold in each shade stays constant, and that constant is why the classic pinks and blue-reds in most makeup bags fight this face.

Why these shades, and not the ones you own

Strip the sixteen faces back and four swaps are doing most of the work. Below, each one sits next to the shade a Warm Autumn most often already owns: the classic, the safe neutral, the one a counter assistant reaches for first. None of them are too strong or too weak for this face. They are too cold.

Why these shades and not those

Tap a product
Reach for Chocolate
The same at every depth
What goes wrong Jet black
The same at every depth

Black is the default liner, and it is the coldest color in the kit. Hair with copper in it and eyes with gold or green in them never reach true black, so a black line is darker than anything else on the face and it draws a border instead of depth. Chocolate does the same job at the depth this coloring actually has.

The working shade moves with the skin - golden peach on a fair cheek becomes terracotta on a deep one - so there is no single right hex, and the cheat-sheet has yours. The failing shade does not move at all, because its problem is temperature, and a blue base is wrong on every depth. Liner is the one product that stays put on both sides: chocolate for everyone. The hexes under "What goes wrong" are examples of the mistake, not measured products.

All four failures come from one place: a cool base. Black has no warmth, taupe has gray and mauve in it, baby pink and blue-red both lean blue. Warm Autumn is the warmest coloring there is - your palette has gold running through every shade, the greens included - so the first cool product on this face looks borrowed from somebody else.

So much for what to buy. How much of it goes on, and in which order, is easier to show step by step.

How to build it, step by step

The same four swaps, now in the order they go on. Getting the shade right is the easy half; the technique under each step is what makes a rich palette look like your own warmth rather than a layer of brown on top of it.

  1. Base

    Golden skin, warmed rather than covered

    Your base shades, by depth

    The season fixes the undertone - golden, peach or honey, and never pink. Your own skin fixes the depth.

    A fair complexion wearing the Warm Autumn base
    Fair
    • Foundation Fair - warm ivory #F3E0CE
    • Bronzer Fair - soft golden brown #C9A27A
    • Highlighter Fair - golden champagne #EFE0BE
    A light complexion wearing the Warm Autumn base
    Light
    • Foundation Light - golden beige #E3BE93
    • Bronzer Light - warm golden brown #A87141
    • Highlighter Light - warm gold #F2D9A0
    A medium complexion wearing the Warm Autumn base
    Medium
    • Foundation Medium - honey caramel #B98A56
    • Bronzer Medium - terracotta bronze #9C5A38
    • Highlighter Medium - peach pearl #F7D6BE
    A deep complexion wearing the Warm Autumn base
    Deep
    • Foundation Deep - warm cocoa #7A5035
    • Bronzer Deep - dark copper bronze #6E4028
    • Highlighter Deep - bronze glow #D8AC78

    This coloring looks best when the skin reads warm and slightly sunlit, so the base job is to even the tone and leave the glow. Press a light to medium golden base into the areas that need it - around the nose, the chin, any redness - with fingers or a damp sponge, and let the cheekbones show through. Freckles are part of the coloring; a base heavy enough to hide them flattens everything else too.

    Bronzer does real work on this face, because the skin tans gold. Choose a warm golden brown or terracotta one or two steps below your skin, and sweep it where the sun would land: the top of the forehead, the cheekbones, the bridge of the nose. Highlighter comes last and stays small - gold, peach pearl or bronze, tapped onto the top of the cheekbone only.

    Tip Check the base at the jaw in daylight. A golden shade disappears there; a pink one leaves a grayish edge and makes the neck look yellow beside it.

  2. Cheeks

    Warmth first, then everything else

    Put blush on before the eyes. A warm cheek sets the temperature of the whole face, and once it is there the eye and lip need less. Cream sinks in and looks like a flush; a soft matte powder works too on this coloring. Smile, press it onto the top of the cheek with two fingers, then sweep it up and back toward the temple so it meets the bronzer.

    Blush

    Golden peach on the fairest cheek, terracotta on the deepest, each step deeper and warmer than the last. Pick the one nearest your own flush after a walk outside, and start with half.

    Golden peach blush for Warm Autumn
    Golden peach blush #F0BE8E
    Apricot blush for Warm Autumn
    Apricot blush #F3B282
    Grapefruit for Warm Autumn
    Grapefruit #E57F5F
    Terracotta blush for Warm Autumn
    Terracotta blush #C9714F

    Tip Blush and bronzer should look like one warm wash where they meet. If you can see two colors, blend the line between them rather than adding more.

  3. Eyes

    Warm brows, an earthy lid, a chocolate line

    In that order, because each one decides how far the next can go. Brows first: warm, at your hair color or a step lighter, never ash. Then one earthy shade over the lid - golden beige to khaki olive by depth. Then chocolate liner pressed into the lash roots and a warm brown mascara. By day the eye should look defined and warm, with nothing on it darker than your own iris.

    Brows

    Match the warmth of your hair, not its darkness: copper hair takes a copper or golden brow, dark hair a warm brown. Fill with short strokes and keep the front light.

    Golden blonde brow for Warm Autumn
    Golden blonde brow #B99664
    Copper auburn brow for Warm Autumn
    Copper auburn brow #A0603A
    Chestnut brown brow for Warm Autumn
    Chestnut brown brow #7A5334
    Warm dark brown brow for Warm Autumn
    Warm dark brown brow #56392A

    Everyday eyeshadow

    One shade across the moving lid, blended up to the crease and no further. Ochre and khaki olive make green and hazel eyes look greener.

    Golden beige lid for Warm Autumn
    Golden beige lid #E0CBA8
    Apricot lid for Warm Autumn
    Apricot lid #EAB183
    Ochre lid for Warm Autumn
    Ochre lid #C79A4E
    Khaki olive lid for Warm Autumn
    Khaki olive lid #8F8A5E

    Eyeliner

    Four colors, not four depths - each one suits every complexion. Chocolate is the daily line; antique bronze lights the eye, and teal and forest green are the colors that do what black does without the chill.

    Antique bronze liner for Warm Autumn
    Antique bronze liner #8A6230
    Teal green liner for Warm Autumn
    Teal green liner #2A6158
    Forest green liner for Warm Autumn
    Forest green liner #33452C
    Chocolate liner for Warm Autumn
    Chocolate liner #4A3122

    Mascara

    Match your lash root: bronze brown on the fairest, soft black-brown on the deepest. For more drama, add a second coat to the outer lashes rather than switching to black.

    Bronze mascara for Warm Autumn
    Bronze mascara #8A6338
    Brown mascara for Warm Autumn
    Brown mascara #6B4A32
    Chocolate mascara for Warm Autumn
    Chocolate mascara #46301F
    Soft black-brown mascara for Warm Autumn
    Soft black-brown mascara #2B221C

    Tip If you own one liner, make it chocolate. It suits every shade on this page, and in a photograph it reads as depth, where black reads as an outline.

  4. Lips

    A nude with spice in it

    The Warm Autumn nude is peach, caramel, terracotta or honey brown - never the pink-beige that most ranges sell as their default nude. On golden skin a pink nude turns ashy and the mouth fades into the face. Pick the shade that looks like your own lip after a warm drink, press it on from the center outward, and blur the edge with a fingertip.

    Nude lips

    Peach at the fair end, honey brown at the deep end, all of them warm. The right one is your lip color with a little more spice in it.

    Peach nude for Warm Autumn
    Peach nude #E9A98C
    Caramel nude for Warm Autumn
    Caramel nude #B9805E
    Terracotta nude for Warm Autumn
    Terracotta nude #B8705A
    Honey brown nude for Warm Autumn
    Honey brown nude #A0724A

    Tip A little bronze or gold gloss dabbed on the center of any of these four is an easy way to take the day face into the evening.

Four steps, and the day face is done. The evening is where most advice for this coloring goes wrong, because it reaches for black.

Your evening face: what changes, and what must not

Two things move and four stay put - less than most evening advice suggests. The evening face is the day face with the warmth taken deeper: a metal at the outer corner, a spiced red on the mouth, and a short list of things left exactly as they were. Each depth appears twice below, the same woman in both frames.

Eyes

At night this coloring goes richer, not blacker. Keep the day shade on the center of the lid and give the outer third to one metal or earth - copper, bronze, terracotta or moss - from the crease round to the lower lashes.

How to make the change
  1. Start with your day shade over the whole lid.
  2. Press the evening shade into the crease and across the outer third of the lid.
  3. Smudge a little under the outer half of the lower lashes, no further in.
  4. Keep the evening shade off the center of the lid; it stays the brightest spot on the eye.
  5. Push the liner into the lash roots and soften every edge with a clean brush.

The rule A warm smoky eye, never a gray one. The same smoke done in charcoal and black is the classic mistake here: it is darker than the hair and the eyes, and it turns a warm face cold.

Fair

Golden beige stays on the lid, copper shimmer takes the crease and the outer corner, and an antique bronze line sits inside the upper lashes. Copper is the easiest evening color a fair Warm Autumn has: it catches the light like the hair does and makes hazel-green eyes look greener.

Warm Autumn daytime eye on a fair complexion
By day
Warm Autumn evening eye on a fair complexion Richest at the outer corner Center of the lid stays lightest Lower lashes: outer half only
By evening
Light

Apricot on the lid, warm bronze through the crease and past the corner, a teal green line along the lashes. Bronze gives the depth of a smoky eye with gold in it instead of gray, and the teal picks up any green in the iris.

Warm Autumn daytime eye on a light complexion
By day
Warm Autumn evening eye on a light complexion Richest at the outer corner Center of the lid stays lightest Lower lashes: outer half only
By evening
Medium

Ochre on the lid, deep terracotta through the crease, teal green along the lashes. Terracotta and teal sit opposite each other on the color wheel, so each makes the other look richer - and neither goes anywhere near black.

Warm Autumn daytime eye on a medium complexion
By day
Warm Autumn evening eye on a medium complexion Richest at the outer corner Center of the lid stays lightest Lower lashes: outer half only
By evening
Deep

Khaki olive on the lid, deep moss green round the outer corner, antique bronze along the lashes. On deep golden skin a moss green reads as color rather than shadow, and the bronze line catches the light the way a black one never does.

Warm Autumn daytime eye on a deep complexion
By day
Warm Autumn evening eye on a deep complexion Richest at the outer corner Center of the lid stays lightest Lower lashes: outer half only
By evening

Lips

The day nude and the evening red share the same warm spice, so switching between them is a matter of depth, not a new choice. The one thing to keep at night is a soft edge.

How to make the change
  1. Tap the first layer on with a finger.
  2. Press a tissue to the lips once.
  3. Add a second layer to the center of the lips only.
  4. Leave the outline blurred - no pencil line, day or night.

The rule Your depth picks which nude and which red are yours; the hour only decides how much goes on.

Fair

Peach nude by day, pumpkin spice after dark. A burnt orange sounds brave and is not, on this coloring: against fair golden skin and copper-blonde hair it looks like it was made for the face.

Warm Autumn daytime lip on a fair complexion
By day
Warm Autumn evening lip on a fair complexion Leave the corner soft Build through the middle
By evening
Light

Caramel nude by day, copper red after dark - a red with orange and brown in it, and the one to own if you only buy one evening lipstick.

Warm Autumn daytime lip on a light complexion
By day
Warm Autumn evening lip on a light complexion Leave the corner soft Build through the middle
By evening
Medium

Terracotta nude by day, brick red after dark. The signature Warm Autumn lip, and on a tan complexion it looks rich rather than dark.

Warm Autumn daytime lip on a medium complexion
By day
Warm Autumn evening lip on a medium complexion Leave the corner soft Build through the middle
By evening
Deep

Honey brown nude by day, brick red after dark, the same shade as the row above landing deeper here. For more still, cordovan is on the palette and wears beautifully on this skin.

Warm Autumn daytime lip on a deep complexion
By day
Warm Autumn evening lip on a deep complexion Leave the corner soft Build through the middle
By evening

What must not change

The center of the lid

It catches the light in the morning and it still should at night. The evening shade frames it; cover it and the eye looks smaller.

The blush

Same terracotta or peach, same place, same amount. Deepen the cheek to keep up with a brick lip and the face turns one flat shade of red-brown.

The brows

They stay warm and at your hair color. A darker, cooler pencil for the evening puts a hard line above everything you kept soft.

The base

This is not the moment for more coverage. Flash and restaurant light are harsh on a heavy base, and extra powder takes away the glow that carries a copper lid.

The short version: at night go warmer and deeper, never grayer. Whether a shade manages that depends on something its name never mentions.

Why the right shade can still look wrong

Most of the time, the finish is to blame. A product is two things, a color and a surface, and the surface - how much light it sends back, and what color that light is - is the half no box describes. Below: one lipstick on one mouth, shot four ways, the shade unchanged.

One shade, four finishes

A deep brick red lipstick worn flat and matte
Matte Yes A matte brick is the classic Autumn lip, and it earns the name: the flat surface keeps an earthy shade looking rich instead of shiny. Prep is the whole trick, because matte settles into dry lines. Balm first, then blot rather than powder.
Brick red lipstick with a soft satin sheen
Satin Yes The easiest finish this coloring has, and the everyday default. The soft sheen reads like warm light on the mouth and leaves the depth of the color alone.
Brick red lipstick under a wet-look gloss
High shine Careful A clear gloss puts a bright white point on the lip, and a deep shade looks thinner and wetter under it. Pick a gloss with its own warm tint, or dab clear gloss only at the center of the lower lip.
The same lipstick in a dense frost, packed with metallic pearl
Frost No Set the fourth photograph beside the first. Same lipstick, now packed with pearl: the rich brick has become a metallic film, and every dry line on the lip catches the light. That is the warm version. Most frosts are built on white or silver pearl, which turns the same red gray on golden skin.

Across those four photographs two things move. The first is the specular highlight, the bright spot a smooth surface reflects straight back: none on matte, a low wide band on satin, a sharp point on gloss, and on frost the whole lip turns reflective.

Second, and this is the one a Warm Autumn has to watch: the color of the shine. Shimmer is made of tiny coated flakes, and the coating decides what they flash. Gold, copper and bronze flakes are this season’s own metals, so a metallic lid is one of the best things this face can wear at night. Silver, icy pink and blue duochrome flakes are cool, and they turn a warm base cold the moment light hits them. In the shop, tilt the pan under a lamp. If the flash is silver or pink, it is the wrong product, however warm the base color looks.

The same question, on skin

Base
Honey caramel satin foundation on a tan cheek, the cheekbone catching light
Satin Yes Light comes back off the cheekbone and the skin still reads as skin - the sun-warmed look this coloring is built on.
Honey caramel matte foundation on the same cheek, the glow gone
Full matte Careful Same face, with the glow gone. Golden skin that throws back no light starts to look flat and slightly khaki. Keep matte to the center of the face.
Highlighter
Peach pearl highlighter blended wide over the cheekbone
Soft glow Yes Warm, wide and edgeless, so it reads as skin in late sun. Golden champagne, warm gold, peach pearl or bronze - the width matters more than the shade.
A metallic highlighter meant as a bright strip along the cheekbone
Metallic Careful The metal itself is fine on this skin; the edge is not. A hard strip reads as a stripe. Tap it out with a fingertip until you cannot find where it stops.
Brows
Chestnut brow filled with powder, the hairs still showing
Powder or gel Yes Hairs still show and the tail fades out on its own, so the brow looks filled in rather than drawn on.
Chestnut brow drawn in waxy pencil as one solid shape
Waxy pencil No Wax draws a solid shape and then gives it a shine. The outline ends up as the hardest edge on the face.
Blush
Grapefruit coral cream blush melted into the cheek
Cream Yes It melts into the skin instead of sitting on it, which is how a real flush looks.
Grapefruit coral powder blush with a soft matte surface
Powder Yes Fine on this coloring, unlike on the clearest seasons: a soft matte terracotta has the same earthy surface as the rest of the palette. Buff the edge until it disappears, or press it over cream so it lasts all day.

A finish does more on a cheek than on a lip, because skin brings a texture of its own that the product either keeps or hides. In every pair, the left-hand photograph is the one where skin still looks like skin.

What that means, product by product

Base
Satin or natural. Full matte takes away the warm glow this skin runs on.
Blush
Cream or a soft matte powder, both in terracotta, apricot or golden peach.
Eyeshadow
Matte or satin by day; copper, bronze and gold metals after dark. Check that the shimmer flashes gold, not silver or pink.
Brows
Powder or a tinted gel, golden blonde to warm dark brown. Never a waxy pencil.
Lips
Satin every day, matte for a brick or cordovan, a tinted gloss for shine. Never frost.
Highlighter
Gold, peach pearl or bronze, pressed in with no edge. Silver and icy pink sit on top of golden skin like frost.
If your skin is oily

Fix it with placement, not with more coverage. Powdering everything matte is the obvious move and the wrong one: it takes away the golden glow this coloring depends on, and by the afternoon it breaks up anyway. Set the forehead, nose and chin, leave the cheekbones alone, and carry blotting papers instead of a second powder.

How to get the right one home

All of the above depends on getting the right shade home, which is harder than it sounds. Below: a test that works, the label words worth believing, and why the usual wrist swatch in the aisle tells you nothing.

The jaw test

  1. Paint three candidate stripes from the jawline down onto the neck. Skip the wrist and the back of the hand.
  2. Blend all three out.
  3. Walk to a window. Store lighting is warm, and under it a pink-leaning base looks almost golden.
  4. Buy the one that has vanished - not the nicest stripe, the one you can no longer see.
Three unblended foundation stripes running from the jaw onto the neck
Three across the jaw Along the jawbone and down past it onto the neck. That border is where a pink base gives itself away first, so that is where the stripes go.
Jaw and neck once the three stripes are blended in
Blend, and lose one Blended. Buy the stripe you can no longer find between face and neck. Any stripe you can still see goes back, however good it looked in the bottle.
Three foundation swatches on the back of a hand, each looking close enough
The back of the hand The hand is usually a different color from the face and takes product differently, so all three shades look fine on it. That is exactly why it cannot tell you anything.

Every foundation shelf is a grid. Here is your square.

Behind every foundation range sits the same grid: how deep down the side, which way it leans across the top. The shelf rarely shows it, the shade finder always does. Below is that grid with only the Warm Autumn squares outlined.

How to read it
  1. Down the side: how deep. Brands number depth however they like - 1 to 10, 110 to 550 - so the four words down this side are ours, not theirs. Find your row at the jaw, with the wrist out of it.
  2. Across the top: which way it leans. The letter printed on the shade: C cool, N neutral, W warm, and in some ranges P for pink, Y yellow, G golden, O olive. Cool letters are on the left of the chart, warm ones on the right.
  3. The column is your season. The row is you. Read one row and you are reading one shelf: a single depth word with different letters in front. Honey caramel is yours; neutral caramel next to it might pass at the jaw, olive caramel only if it looks golden on you, and pink caramel draws a grayish border along the jawline. With the depth fixed, the letter is the last thing to check.
What is your depth?
Undertone · the letter on the shade  —  cooler → warmer
Depth CCool / pink - grays you at the jaw NNeutral - close, the jaw decides OOlive - only if it reads golden WWarm / golden - yours
Fair pink ivory neutral ivory olive ivory warm ivory
Light pink beige neutral beige olive beige golden beige
Medium pink caramel neutral caramel olive caramel honey caramel
Deep pink cocoa neutral cocoa olive cocoa warm cocoa

Every Warm Autumn shops the outlined column. Pick a depth to light up the one square that is yours.

  • The Warm Autumn column. This undertone, at the depth that is yours.
  • A shade that sits beside yours on the shelf, same depth word, different letter. Here so you can recognize it, not a shade from this palette.

The request never changes: one undertone letter, at your own depth. A warm ivory Warm Autumn and a warm cocoa one want the same letter with a different number, so what you ask for is your depth plus warm, never a shade name lifted from an ad.

A word on the chart itself. The warm squares are this site’s values, not any brand’s: the same letter comes out slightly differently in each range, and depth numbers mean nothing from one brand to the next, so no chart lets you order a shade unseen. The cool, neutral and olive squares are illustrations, made by pushing your warm shade toward the other undertone and naming it the way a shelf would, so a wrong letter is easy to catch. Neutral is a maybe: if one looks golden on you, count it as warm and let the jaw test decide.

Reading a shade name

Worth picking up
warm golden honey caramel bronze copper spice terracotta
Put it back
cool pink rose ash icy berry mauve porcelain

For a Warm Autumn the "put it back" list is almost all temperature, which makes it easy to read - until you meet the soft words. Nude, natural, neutral and beige say nothing about undertone, and in most ranges the default nude is a pink-beige. Treat them as a question, not an answer: the jaw and the window settle it. The words that do carry warmth are the foods and metals - honey, caramel, spice, bronze, copper.

What the finish words on a label actually mean

Satin, natural, second-skin
The everyday answer.
Radiant, luminous, glow
Yours, as long as the glow is golden. Tilt it under a light and check the flash before you buy.
Demi-matte, soft matte, velvet
Fine on this coloring, and classic on a brick or terracotta lip. Keep the cheekbones out of it.
Metallic, foil, chrome
A copper or bronze foil on the lid is one of this season’s best evening eyes. Silver or rose-gold chrome is a different product with the same word on it.
Frost, pearl-finish, iridescent
Put it back. Dense pearl is white or silver pigment, and on golden skin it reads as frost.

Judging a swatch photo online

Product photos are lit to sell: bright, even and a touch warm. That light hands every shade a little gold it may not have, so a rose-beige photographs as a peach and a cool brown as a warm one. Warmth is precisely what you are shopping for, so on a screen the right shade and the wrong one can look identical. Two habits help: believe a swatch on skin over one in a pan, and believe a photo with a shadow across it, since the undertone shows where the light falls off.

Look for a shadow
Apricot blush swatched on an arm in daylight, half in shadow
Shadow in frame Trust it Where the light drops away you can see the real undertone of the product. A shadow is where a pink base shows through a shade sold as warm.
The apricot swatch under flat studio light, looking paler and cleaner
Bright flat light Careful Same blush. Flat studio light is usually warmed a little, and it makes almost every shade look golden - which is the one thing a Warm Autumn needs to check, not assume.
Look for skin, not a pan
The apricot blush blended out on the arm in soft daylight
Swatched on skin Trust it Blended into skin is the only version that shows what the product will do on a face.
The apricot blush in its pan, brighter than it goes on
Straight out of the pan Careful A pan is pigment at full density with no skin under it. Most shades go on sheerer, and on golden skin they also pick up warmth, so the pan tells you the family and not much more.
Why there are no brand names on this page

Makeup ranges get reformulated, renamed and dropped every season, so a product list goes stale from the day it is posted, and every out-of-date pick is money someone spends. Hexes, label words and the jaw test have no expiry date: they work in any store, including on ranges launched after this page.

When it does not work

You have the shades, the order, the finishes and a way to buy them. This last part is troubleshooting, for the morning a face looks wrong and the reason is not obvious.

Two ways it goes wrong

You look sallow, or a bit gray

What it looks like
The skin looks yellow-green around the mouth and gray under the eyes, even with concealer on. People ask if you slept badly. It is worse in daylight than under warm indoor light.
Why
Something cool is on the face: a pink-toned foundation, a silver highlight, a baby pink cheek, a blue-red lip. Golden skin next to a blue base does not look calmer; it looks yellower, the way a cream wall looks dirty next to a bright white one.
Fix
Warm it up, product by product, starting with the base. Golden instead of pink, gold instead of silver, terracotta instead of pink, brick instead of blue-red. The face should look like it has been in the sun, not under a fluorescent tube.

Everything is brown and it looks muddy

What it looks like
A bronze lid, a brown lip, bronzer everywhere, matte from forehead to chin. Each product is warm and on the list, and together they flatten the face into one color with no light in it.
Why
The over-correction. Readers who learn they are warm often swap everything for brown, then go darker still to look finished. Warm Autumn is rich, not dark: its palette has pumpkin, olive, teal and gold in it, and a face made only of brown loses the color that makes the season.
Fix
Keep it warm and bring back light and color. One sheen - a copper lid or a peach pearl on the cheekbone - and one clear color: a pumpkin or copper-red lip, a teal line. Drop the second brown, not the warmth.

And the shades that never work

Every swatch below misses for one of three reasons, named on its tag. Once the three make sense the list stops being necessary: any new product will show you which of them it is making.

Base and glow

  • Pink-toned porcelain base cool
  • Silver highlighter cool
  • Gray-taupe contour dull
  • Gray-beige setting powder dull

Cheeks

  • Baby pink blush cool
  • Fuchsia blush cool
  • Dusty mauve blush dull
  • Plum blush heavy

Eyes

  • Icy lilac shimmer cool
  • Cool taupe shadow dull
  • Charcoal smoke heavy
  • Black kohl all round heavy

Lips

  • Blue-red cool
  • Cool berry cool
  • Mauve nude dull
  • Black-cherry heavy

Why each one fails

coolToo cool
Pink-based, blue-based, silver, icy, lilac. This is the warmest coloring there is, and the cool shades fail on it first and hardest. They leave the skin looking sallow by comparison, starting at the jaw. It is the most common tag on the list for a reason.
dullToo dull
Gray-taupe, greige, dusty mauve. Muted shades belong to Soft Autumn; on this face the gray in them reads as tiredness, and the warmth in the skin has nothing to meet.
heavyToo heavy
Black, charcoal, plum, black-cherry. Warm Autumn goes deep - cordovan and forest green are on the list - but its depth is always brown or red, never black. A blackened shade is darker than the hair and the eyes, and it takes over the face.

Only the tags matter here; each swatch just illustrates its mistake, and its hex is an example rather than a measured product. If the dull ones fill most of your makeup bag and they suit you, read Soft Autumn, which carries muted warmth well. If black liner and black-cherry lips are what flatter you, read Deep Autumn, the darker neighbor.

Your shades, in one block

Every shade from this page in one place, sized for a screenshot you can hold up at a counter. Foundation, bronzer and highlighter go by depth: find your row and stop there. The other families run from the fairest Warm Autumn on the left to the deepest on the right, and you land somewhere along each row.

Base: foundation, bronzer, glow and blush

Foundation matched to your depth
  • Fair - warm ivory Fair #F3E0CE
  • Light - golden beige Light #E3BE93
  • Medium - honey caramel Medium #B98A56
  • Deep - warm cocoa Deep #7A5035
Bronzer matched to your depth
  • Fair - soft golden brown Fair #C9A27A
  • Light - warm golden brown Light #A87141
  • Medium - terracotta bronze Medium #9C5A38
  • Deep - dark copper bronze Deep #6E4028
Highlighter matched to your depth
  • Fair - golden champagne Fair #EFE0BE
  • Light - warm gold Light #F2D9A0
  • Medium - peach pearl Medium #F7D6BE
  • Deep - bronze glow Deep #D8AC78
Blush
  • Golden peach blush #F0BE8E
  • Apricot blush #F3B282
  • Grapefruit #E57F5F
  • Terracotta blush #C9714F

Eyes: shadow, liner, mascara, brows

Everyday eyeshadow
  • Golden beige lid #E0CBA8
  • Apricot lid #EAB183
  • Ochre lid #C79A4E
  • Khaki olive lid #8F8A5E
Evening eyeshadow
  • Copper shimmer #B5652F
  • Bronze lid #96703C
  • Terracotta lid #97472C
  • Moss green lid #4E5B34
Eyeliner
  • Antique bronze liner #8A6230
  • Teal green liner #2A6158
  • Forest green liner #33452C
  • Chocolate liner #4A3122
Mascara
  • Bronze mascara #8A6338
  • Brown mascara #6B4A32
  • Chocolate mascara #46301F
  • Soft black-brown mascara #2B221C
Brows
  • Golden blonde brow #B99664
  • Copper auburn brow #A0603A
  • Chestnut brown brow #7A5334
  • Warm dark brown brow #56392A

Lips: nudes and color

Nude lips
  • Peach nude #E9A98C
  • Caramel nude #B9805E
  • Terracotta nude #B8705A
  • Honey brown nude #A0724A
Colored lips
  • Pumpkin spice #D2571E
  • Copper red lip #B94A2C
  • Brick red #9E3B2C
  • Cordovan #842B2B

Two rows are not depth ladders. Eyeliner is four colors that suit every complexion - antique bronze, teal green, forest green and chocolate - and chocolate is the daily pick for all of them. Brows track your hair rather than your skin: take the shade that matches your hair or one lighter. Evening eyeshadow runs copper to moss by depth, but all four are the same metals and earths, and any of them works for anyone at night. The base on four real complexions, and the clothing palette behind all of this, are on the palette page. The full Warm Autumn palette →

Warm Autumn makeup

Questions people ask

What makeup colors should a Warm Autumn wear?
Warm, rich and earthy: golden peach, apricot and terracotta on the cheeks, golden beige, ochre and khaki olive on the lid by day, with copper, bronze, terracotta or moss green at night. Chocolate liner, brown mascara, and lips running from peach and caramel nudes to pumpkin, brick and cordovan. Every shade has gold in it, and none has pink or blue. All of them are in the cheat-sheet at the end.
What is the best lipstick color for a Warm Autumn?
A brick red is the signature, with pumpkin, copper red and cordovan around it - an orange-brown red rather than a blue one. By day the same warmth comes as caramel, peach, terracotta and honey-brown nudes. The lipstick to retire is the classic blue-red: on golden skin it makes the teeth look yellow and the face look tired.
What makeup should a Warm Autumn avoid?
Cool shades first: pink-based foundation, silver highlighter, baby pink or fuchsia blush, icy lilac shimmer, blue-red and berry lips. Then gray ones, like taupe and mauve, which read as tiredness here. Then black and black-cherry, which are darker than anything else on the face. The full list with swatches is above.
Is True Autumn makeup the same as Warm Autumn makeup?
Yes. True Autumn is the older name for the same coloring, so a True Autumn makeup list or palette applies to you as it stands. Both names mean the Autumn with the most warmth: golden skin, copper in the hair, and shades with gold running through them.
Should a Warm Autumn wear gold or silver shimmer?
Gold, bronze and copper. A gold or peach-pearl highlighter melts into golden skin, while a silver or icy pink one sits on top of it like frost. The same goes for the lid: a copper or bronze shimmer is the easiest evening eye this coloring has.
Can a Warm Autumn wear black eyeliner?
It rarely helps. Hair and eyes on this coloring are brown, copper or gold-green, never true black, so a black line is the darkest thing on the face and it frames the eye too hard. Use chocolate by day and forest green or antique bronze at night; for mascara, a soft black-brown is as dark as it needs to go.
Warm Autumn, Soft Autumn or Deep Autumn makeup - what is the difference?
All three are warm. Soft Autumn wears the same shades grayed down - muted terracotta, olive, soft brick. Deep Autumn goes darker - espresso, oxblood, deep plum-brown. Warm Autumn sits between them, with the most gold and the most color: pumpkin, copper, bronze and brick at full strength.
What if my skin falls between two depths?
For foundation, ignore the labels: stripe both shades from the jaw onto the neck, check them by a window, and buy the one you can no longer find. For everything else the depths only mark the most likely shade in each family, and the shades next to it work just as well. The jaw test is explained above.
Which brands make Warm Autumn makeup?
None - no brand designs a range around one color season, and any line with a wide shade range will have shades that suit you. Products go unnamed here because ranges change every year. What carries over to any store is a shade name, a few label words and the jaw test; a boxed "warm autumn makeup kit" is only worth buying if every pan in it passes them.

Where this came from

Six sources, and what each supports: that makeup works by changing facial contrast, and that too much of it ages a face; what a flush is; why depth and undertone are two separate things a base must match; how we see gloss; and why store lighting hides a cool foundation.

  1. Aspects of facial contrast decrease with age and are cues for age perception (opens in a new tab) Porcheron, Mauger & Russell, PLoS ONE, 2013

    Behind the idea this page rests on. Facial contrast - how far the eyes, brows and mouth stand out from the skin - can be measured, makeup raises it, and people read it as a cue to age. A Warm Autumn face has medium contrast built from warm browns and copper, never from black. That is why chocolate and forest green do the work of a black liner here, and why the depth this face carries is always a warm one.

  2. Differential effects of makeup on perceived age (opens in a new tab) Russell, Batres, Courrèges et al., British Journal of Psychology, 2019

    Behind everything is brown and it looks muddy. In controlled photographs, makeup made women in their forties and fifties look younger and women of twenty look older. Contrast pushed past what a face carries reads as age - the mechanism behind a black rim or a face made entirely of dark bronze, and why the fix is light and color rather than more depth.

  3. Skin blood perfusion and oxygenation colour affect perceived human health (opens in a new tab) Stephen, Coetzee, Law Smith & Perrett, PLoS ONE, 2009

    Behind the cheeks step. Asked to make a face look as healthy as possible, people add the color of oxygenated blood under the skin. Blush imitates that flush, and on golden skin the flush comes up peach and brick - which is why a terracotta reads as color from inside and a blue-pink reads as a patch on top.

  4. Non-invasive measurements of skin pigmentation in situ (opens in a new tab) Stamatas, Zmudzka, Kollias & Beer, Pigment Cell Research, 2004

    Behind the two axes of the shade grid. Skin color carries two signals: melanin sets the depth - your row - and hemoglobin adds its own, and the two have to be separated to measure either. A base must match both, which is why a golden undertone is a column you choose, not something a darker shade fixes.

  5. The dark side of gloss (opens in a new tab) Kim, Marlow & Anderson, Nature Neuroscience, 2012

    Behind finishes. We read gloss from specular highlights and their dark counterparts, and the effect disappears when they are blurred. Satin spreads the highlight into a soft band, which is why it is the easy finish on this rich coloring; a frost scatters light into a pale film, which is why it sits on golden skin like frost on a window.

  6. CIE 13.3-1995: Method of measuring and specifying colour rendering properties of light sources (opens in a new tab) International Commission on Illumination (CIE), 1995

    Behind the jaw test in how to shop. Light sources are rated on how faithfully they render the colors under them, and shop lighting rates low. Warm store light flatters every golden foundation on the shelf and hides a pink one, so the test belongs at a window.

Where the line falls. The contrast research, the skin biology, the gloss perception and the lighting standard above are sourced. Which shades belong to a Warm Autumn, which suits which depth, and where rich turns into muddy for this coloring are our own analysis, built from the palette on the parent page. No study covers that, and we would rather say so than borrow a citation that does not.

Find my season